Just Landed in Bhutan? Your First 7 Days

Two operators cover the country: Bhutan Telecom (B-Mobile) and TashiCell. 4G is solid in Thimphu, Paro, Punakha and larger towns but drops to patchy 3G or nothing in remote valleys and on trekking routes. Foreigners need a passport and permit to register a SIM, and registration takes only a few minutes at the airport kiosk or any telecom office. B-Mobile generally has the wider rural footprint, while TashiCell is competitive in the western towns.

Typical cost: A prepaid SIM costs around BTN 100-200 with some starter credit; monthly data bundles run roughly BTN 300-600 for several GB, and top-ups are easy via the wallet apps or scratch cards.

The Ngultrum is pegged 1:1 to the Indian Rupee, and Indian Rupee notes (except the INR 500 and 2000 denominations) are widely accepted alongside it. Bhutan is still largely a cash economy, but the domestic mobile-wallet systems MyPay and mBoB are now used everywhere locals shop, from market stalls to taxis, via QR codes. Foreign debit and credit cards are of limited use, so plan to run most of your daily life on cash and a local wallet.

Opening an account: Bank of Bhutan (BoB) and Bhutan National Bank (BNB) are the main choices, with T-Bank and Druk PNB also operating. As a foreigner you open an account with your passport, your work or residence permit and an employer letter, usually arranged once your permit is issued. Ask your bank to activate mBoB (Bank of Bhutan) or MyPay so you can pay and receive money by QR like everyone else.

Cash: Carry cash. Cards are accepted only at upmarket hotels and a handful of Thimphu businesses; most shops, taxis and eateries are cash or local mobile-wallet only. ATMs exist in the towns but can run empty, cap withdrawals or reject foreign cards, so withdraw when you can rather than when you must.

Tipping: Tipping is not expected and is not part of local culture. Rounding up a taxi fare or leaving small change at a tourist-oriented restaurant is appreciated but never required, and there is no obligation to tip in ordinary shops, eateries or for everyday services.

Foreign residents must hold a work, project or residence permit issued by the Department of Immigration, and your address and employment are registered through your sponsoring employer or agency as part of that process. You cannot legally reside or work on a tourist visa, and your permit is tied to your specific sponsor and role, so any change of employer or address must go back through Immigration. Keep your permit and passport accessible, as you may be asked to show them at checkpoints between districts.

Deadline: Handled as part of permit issuance on or before arrival; report to your employer and to Immigration immediately, as your legal stay depends on the permit from day one and there is no grace period for unregistered residence.

Where: Department of Immigration, Thimphu (with a regional office in Phuentsholing), always via your sponsoring employer or agency rather than as a walk-in individual.

Thimphu is compact and walkable, with taxis as the main way to get around; it is famously the only capital in the world with no traffic lights, where a white-gloved policeman directs the main junction by hand. Meters exist but are rarely run for foreigners, so agree fares first. Intercity travel is by shared taxi or bus over slow, winding mountain roads, and there is no urban rail or metro anywhere in the country. City buses run set routes in Thimphu for a few Ngultrum.

From the airport: From Paro International Airport it is a 50km, 1 to 1.5 hour drive to Thimphu on a mountain road. Use an employer or hotel car, or a taxi from the airport rank; fares run roughly BTN 800-1,500 and are best agreed before you set off. There is no train, and the DrukRide app can help book cars and intercity seats in advance.

Most expats rent flats or a floor of a family house in Thimphu, usually found through word of mouth, employer help or local Facebook groups rather than formal agencies. Newer buildings offer far better insulation, hot water and sometimes heating, which matters a great deal in the cold, so prioritise them even at a higher rent. Leases are often informal, so confirm the rent, deposit, notice period and what utilities are included in writing before you move in.

Typical rent: A one to two bedroom flat in Thimphu runs roughly BTN 12,000-25,000 per month; larger, newer or more central apartments cost more, while older cold-water flats further out are cheaper.

Deposit norm: Landlords typically ask for one to three months' rent as a deposit, paid in cash, often alongside a month of advance rent; get a receipt and clarify the return conditions upfront.

Bhutan provides free public healthcare to all residents, including foreigners, through government hospitals and Basic Health Units as a constitutional commitment. The Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Referral Hospital (JDWNRH) in Thimphu is the main and most equipped facility. Care is basic by Western standards, waiting can be long, and complex or serious cases are routinely referred abroad to India or Thailand, so it works well for routine needs but should not be your only line of defence.

How to access it: Walk in to the nearest hospital or Basic Health Unit; consultations and most treatment are free of charge, with your passport and permit as identification. Pharmacies in Thimphu stock common medicines, but supplies of specialist or branded drugs are inconsistent, so bring a personal reserve of any regular prescription from home along with the documentation.

Insurance: Public treatment is free, but private international health insurance with medical-evacuation cover is strongly advised, because serious conditions require air evacuation to Bangkok or major Indian cities and that is expensive and logistically slow to arrange from scratch. Confirm your policy covers Bhutan's altitude and remote evacuation before you rely on it.

• Dress modestly and respectfully; remove shoes and hats before entering temples, dzongs and homes, and never point your feet at altars or at images of the King.
• The royal family is deeply revered. Never criticise the King or joke about the monarchy, and treat portraits, statues and the national flag with visible respect.
• Walk clockwise around chortens, temples and prayer wheels, and always ask before photographing people, monks or the interior of religious buildings.
• Bhutanese are courteous and understated; greet with a slight bow or a soft handshake, give and receive with both hands, and avoid loud, boastful or confrontational behaviour.
• In government offices, formal events and dzongs, national dress is expected of Bhutanese and a smart, modest appearance is expected of visitors; dress up rather than down for anything official.
• Use titles and courtesy generously; adding 'la' to greetings and thanks (kuzuzangpo la, kadrinchhey la) is a small gesture that is warmly received.
• Accept offers of tea, food or hospitality graciously even if only symbolically, as declining outright can seem cold; a little goes a long way in a relationship-driven society.

• Smoking is heavily restricted and the sale of tobacco has historically been tightly controlled; you may import a limited personal quantity but must keep the customs receipt and never smoke in public or religious places.
• Killing animals and, for many, eating meat carries religious weight; be sensitive around Buddhist practice, and expect meat sales and alcohol to be restricted on certain holy days and during religious observances.
• Do not enter or photograph the administrative areas of dzongs, military sites, or restricted border and internal-security zones without explicit permission.
• Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and behaviour that reads as disrespectful to religion, tradition or the crown can cause real offence even when unintended.
• Alcohol is available and socially accepted in moderation, but drunken or rowdy public behaviour is looked down on and clashes sharply with local norms of composure.