Just Landed in Burkina Faso? Your First 7 Days

Orange Burkina Faso and Moov Africa are the two dominant mobile networks, with Telecel Faso a smaller third; Orange generally has the widest reach. 4G works acceptably in Ouagadougou and Bobo-Dioulasso but coverage thins fast outside the cities and can drop during power outages. SIM registration with your passport is mandatory, so buy from an official shop rather than a street kiosk.

Typical cost: A SIM costs around 500-1,000 XOF, and a monthly bundle of a few gigabytes runs roughly 3,000-6,000 XOF; fixed home fibre exists in parts of Ouagadougou but is expensive and patchy, so many people rely on mobile data and a router.

Burkina Faso uses the West African CFA franc (XOF), shared across the eight-member UEMOA bloc and pegged to the euro at the fixed rate of 1 EUR = 655.957 XOF. This is a deeply cash-based economy: carry notes for almost everything, and do not rely on cards or contactless outside upmarket hotels and a couple of supermarkets. Change euros or dollars at banks or reputable bureaux rather than on the street.

Opening an account: Opening a resident account needs your passport, carte de séjour and proof of address or an employer letter. Coris Bank, Ecobank, Bank of Africa and Société Générale Burkinabè de Banques (SGBF) are the usual choices for foreigners; expect several visits, slow processing and modest ATM withdrawal limits. Many newcomers keep a foreign account for larger sums and use the local one mainly for salary and bills.

Cash: Cash dominates almost everywhere, and mobile money (Orange Money and Moov Money) has become the default for transfers, bill payments and topping up airtime. Everyday markets, taxis and small shops still expect physical CFA notes, and small change is perpetually scarce, so hold on to coins and small bills.

Tipping: Tipping is not obligatory. Rounding up or leaving 5-10% in sit-down restaurants is appreciated, and small tips for porters, petrol attendants and the guards (gardiens) who watch parked cars and compounds are customary and expected.

Foreigners intending to reside in Burkina Faso beyond a short visit must obtain a carte de séjour (residence permit) from the immigration authorities. Your employer, host or a fixer usually initiates the process, which requires your passport, entry visa, photographs, proof of address and supporting documents, and involves in-person visits to the immigration office. Because the transitional administration periodically adjusts fees and procedures, confirm the current requirements locally rather than relying on older guidance.

Deadline: Apply within the validity of your entry visa, generally within the first three months of arrival, and do not let your visa lapse before you start.

Where: Direction de la Police des Frontières / immigration services under the national police in Ouagadougou.

Getting around means green city taxis, shared taxis, personal motorbikes and, for the brave, hired motos, while most expats and NGO staff rely on private cars or arranged drivers. There is no established Uber or Bolt service. Green metered-look taxis are the standard hired option in Ouagadougou, and you agree the fare before you get in rather than trusting a meter.

From the airport: Ouagadougou's Thomas Sankara International Airport (formerly Aéroport de Ouagadougou) sits close to the city centre, a short drive of ten to twenty minutes depending on traffic. Pre-arranged hotel or employer transfers are safest for a first arrival; otherwise a taxi to central Ouagadougou runs roughly 3,000-5,000 XOF once you have agreed the fare in advance. A new, larger airport at Donsin, north-east of the city, has been under construction and will eventually change these routes.

Expats mostly rent in Ouagadougou districts such as Ouaga 2000, Zone du Bois, Koulouba and Zone du Conseil, favoured for security, generators, compound walls and proximity to embassies. Listings spread through word of mouth, local agents (démarcheurs) and Facebook groups far more than through big property portals. Viewing in person and confirming the real owner before paying anything is essential.

Typical rent: A furnished, expat-standard apartment or villa in a good Ouagadougou district runs roughly 300,000-800,000 XOF per month, with large secure villas going higher; simpler local housing outside the smart zones is dramatically cheaper. Bobo-Dioulasso is generally cheaper than the capital.

Deposit norm: Landlords typically ask for two to three months' rent as a deposit plus one to several months in advance, almost always settled in cash. Terms are negotiable, contracts can be informal, so get everything written down and keep receipts for every payment.

Public healthcare is under-resourced, and standards are limited, particularly outside Ouagadougou. Serious illness or injury frequently means medical evacuation to Europe, Morocco, Ghana or another better-equipped regional hub, so evacuation cover is not optional. Malaria is endemic and a year-round risk, and it is the single most common serious health problem for newcomers.

How to access it: For routine care, expats use private clinics and polyclinics in Ouagadougou such as Clinique Notre Dame de la Paix, Clinique Philadelphie and various polycliniques, paying upfront in cash and reclaiming from insurance later. Pharmacies are reasonably well stocked in the capital and run a rota of night pharmacies (pharmacies de garde), but bring a supply of any specialist medication. Yellow fever vaccination is required for entry, and malaria prophylaxis is strongly advised.

Insurance: International health insurance that explicitly includes emergency medical evacuation and repatriation is essential; local cover is minimal, few facilities can handle major trauma or complex conditions, and self-funding an evacuation flight is prohibitively expensive.

• Greet people warmly before any request; a handshake and a few words of French or Mooré go a long way, and rushing straight to business is seen as rude.
• Take time over greetings, which can be extended and are genuinely meant; asking after someone's health, family and work is normal and expected.
• Use your right hand for eating, giving and receiving, as the left hand is considered unclean.
• Dress modestly, particularly outside the cities and when visiting officials or elders; cover shoulders and knees.
• Show respect to elders and community leaders, who hold real authority in Burkinabè social life, and defer to them in group settings.
• Accept hospitality graciously; sharing food, tea or water is central, and refusing outright can cause offence.
• Ask before photographing people, and never photograph soldiers, checkpoints, airports or government buildings.

• The security situation is volatile; avoid the north, east and Sahel regions and stay off intercity roads after dark.
• Military and police checkpoints are frequent. Stay calm, keep your documents ready, and follow instructions without arguing.
• Ramadan and religious observances affect opening hours and daytime eating in this mixed Muslim, Christian and traditional-faith society.
• Political tension can flare quickly under the military transition; steer clear of demonstrations, protests and large gatherings.
• Avoid public criticism of the government or the security forces, particularly online, as the climate for open political speech has tightened.