Africa · Arrival Guide
Just Landed in Comoros? Your First 7 Days
The Comoros is a three-island archipelago (Grande Comore, Anjouan and Mohéli) off the coast of Mozambique between Madagascar and the mainland, with the capital Moroni on Grande Comore. It is a small, cash-based, conservative Muslim society with limited formal infrastructure, patchy banking and frequent power and water cuts, so newcomers should arrive with plenty of cash and low expectations of online convenience. Most expats settle in Moroni or in Mutsamudu on Anjouan around aid and development work, teaching, medicine, engineering projects or family ties.
117 / N/A (call a hospital or clinic directly)
Police 117 · Ambulance N/A (call a hospital or clinic directly) · Fire 113 or 114
Moroni
Comorian franc (KMF)
Comorian (Shikomori), French, Arabic
+269
Getting your bearings in Comoros
Arriving in the Comoros is a jump into one of the least-visited and least-industrialised corners of the Indian Ocean, and the first weeks feel slow, warm and improvised in roughly equal measure. Your plane lands at Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport on Grande Comore (the largest island, sometimes called Ngazidja), and within an hour you notice the things that will shape daily life here: the volcanic bulk of Mount Karthala looming over Moroni, the call to prayer drifting across town five times a day, and the fact that almost nothing runs on a fixed schedule. Power cuts and water cuts are a normal part of the rhythm rather than a crisis, and locals absorb them with a shrug that newcomers eventually learn to copy.
The country is spread across three inhabited islands, each with its own character. Grande Comore is home to Moroni, the seat of government, the main airport and most formal jobs. Anjouan (Ndzuani), the second island, is greener, more crowded and more agricultural, with its port town of Mutsamudu clinging to a steep hillside. Mohéli (Mwali) is the smallest, quietest and most nature-focused, known for its marine park, turtles and near-total lack of infrastructure. Getting between them means a short domestic flight or a boat, neither of which is especially reliable.
Language is the first practical surprise. The everyday spoken language is Shikomori (Comorian), a Bantu tongue closely related to Swahili, but almost all official, administrative and business life happens in French, and Arabic carries strong religious weight. If you speak French you will manage everything from banks to ministries to markets; if you only speak English you will find very few people to talk to outside aid circles and a handful of hotels, so learning even basic French and a few Shikomori greetings pays off quickly. Beyond language, what surprises most people is the sheer informality of everything: housing, jobs, transport and even paperwork run on personal relationships and word of mouth far more than on institutions, websites or fixed prices. Patience, cash and a good local contact are worth more here than any app.
Your first 48 hours
The essentials to sort out the moment you land in Comoros.
- 1
Buy a local SIM at the airport or in town
Pick up a prepaid SIM from Yas Comores (the Telma-owned operator, generally cheaper with the widest 4G) or Huri, the mobile brand of state-owned Comores Telecom. You can get one at Prince Said Ibrahim Airport or at a downtown Moroni shop, and you must show your passport to register it. A SIM plus a starter data bundle costs only a few hundred to a couple of thousand francs, so it is the cheapest thing you will buy all week.
- 2
Withdraw and stockpile cash
ATMs exist mainly at BFC (Banque Fédérale de Commerce) and Exim Bank Comoros branches in central Moroni, but they are unreliable and frequently run out of notes, especially at weekends. Withdraw Comorian francs whenever a machine is working, keep a solid cash reserve, and understand that outside a couple of hotels almost nothing accepts cards. Bring euros to change as a backup because the franc is pegged to the euro.
- 3
Confirm your accommodation's water and power situation
Before your first night, ask your landlord or host exactly when the electricity and water are cut and whether there is a backup generator, solar panel or a rooftop water tank. Blackouts of several hours are routine and can be longer on the outer islands. Buy candles, a torch, a power bank and a few large bottles of water on day one so a cut does not catch you unprepared.
- 4
Arrange a safe ride from the airport
There are no metered taxis and no ride-hailing apps, so agree a private-taxi fare before you get in or, better, ask your hotel or employer to send a driver. The run from the airport to Moroni is about 20 km and costs roughly 5,000 to 10,000 KMF. Pay in local francs rather than euros and travel in daylight if you can, as roads are unlit and poorly signed after dark.
- 5
Save emergency and key local contacts
Store the police (117) and fire (113 or 114) numbers, but note there is no working national ambulance line, so also save the direct number of El-Maarouf hospital in Moroni and a private clinic. Ask a trusted local or your employer for the mobile number of a reliable shared-taxi driver, a shopkeeper who changes money fairly and someone who can translate at a ministry if your French is shaky.
- 6
Register with your embassy or consulate
The Comoros hosts very few resident embassies; most nationalities are covered remotely from Antananarivo in Madagascar, Dar es Salaam in Tanzania or Paris. Enrol with your foreign ministry's traveller registration service so your consulate can reach you in a crisis. This matters more than usual here because local emergency response and medical evacuation options are extremely thin.
- 7
Buy bottled water and basic supplies
Tap water is not safe to drink anywhere in the country and supply is intermittent, so on your first outing stock up on bottled or filtered water and a few days of non-perishable food. Small local boutiques (shops) sell essentials, while the Moroni Volo-Volo market is the place for fresh produce, fish and household goods. Carry small notes because change for large bills is often unavailable.
- 8
Get oriented in daylight and note landmarks
Street addressing is minimal, so spend your first afternoon walking or driving around your neighbourhood to fix landmarks in your mind: the nearest mosque, market, pharmacy, bank and taxi stand. Download an offline map before you rely on it, as Google Maps coverage of Comorian streets is patchy. Knowing your bearings makes giving directions to a taxi far easier when nothing has a formal name.
Your first week checklist
- Register your SIM with your passport and load a monthly data bundle with Yas Comores or Huri so you can use WhatsApp, which is how almost everyone here communicates.
- Locate the working ATMs at BFC and Exim Bank in central Moroni, withdraw enough francs for at least a fortnight, and identify a reputable place to change euros at close to the fixed peg.
- Confirm your visa or entry stamp validity and start the residence-permit (carte de séjour) process with your employer or sponsor before the entry period expires.
- Enrol with your embassy or consulate's citizen-registration service and take out or confirm international health insurance that explicitly covers medical evacuation.
- Set up your accommodation for outages: buy a power bank, torch, candles, a water reserve and, if possible, confirm the building's generator or solar backup works.
- Do a first big shop at the Volo-Volo market and a couple of boutiques so you understand local prices and always carry small-denomination notes for change.
- Find a reliable shared-taxi driver and learn the fixed-fare routes into and around Moroni, saving the driver's mobile number for evenings and airport runs.
- Introduce yourself to neighbours and, if you are Muslim or open to it, note the times of the nearest mosque, since community relationships open most practical doors here.
- Start basic French and a handful of Shikomori greetings, because administrative life runs in French and a little local language earns immediate goodwill.
Getting connected
There are two mobile operators forming a tight duopoly: Yas Comores (the Telma-owned operator, generally cheaper with the widest 4G footprint) and Huri, the mobile brand of state-owned Comores Telecom. Coverage is decent in Moroni, Mutsamudu and the main towns but thin in the interior and on Mohéli, and speeds are modest even where 4G reaches. Comores Telecom began piloting 5G in 2025, but for now plan around reliable 4G at best and frequent drop-outs during power cuts.
Typical cost: A SIM is around 1,000-2,000 KMF; monthly data bundles run roughly 3,000-10,000 KMF depending on volume, and mobile data is the main way most residents get online.
Money & banking
The Comorian franc (KMF) is pegged to the euro at a fixed rate of 491.9678 KMF to 1 EUR, so euros are the easiest hard currency to bring and change at close to face value. This is an overwhelmingly cash economy: cards are accepted almost nowhere, and even mid-sized purchases are settled in banknotes. Bring a mix of euro cash plus at least one home-country card as a backup for the few ATMs.
Opening an account: BFC (Banque Fédérale de Commerce) and Exim Bank Comoros are the most foreigner-friendly banks, with SNPSF (the postal financial service) also offering accounts; opening one needs your passport, proof of address and usually a work or residence permit, and can be slow. Exim Bank issues Visa debit cards and runs most of the country's card-capable ATMs. Many expats skip the local account entirely and simply live on cash plus a foreign card.
Cash: Almost everything is cash: markets, shared taxis, rent, clinics, pharmacies and shops. Carry small notes because change for large bills is often unavailable, and keep your cash secure and split between places, since there is little recourse if it is lost or stolen. Mobile money exists via the operators but is far less developed than in neighbouring Kenya or Tanzania.
Tipping: Tipping is not expected and is not part of local culture. Rounding up for good service in a restaurant, or leaving a small amount for a helpful porter, guide or driver, is appreciated but never required, and no one will chase you for it.
Registration & residency
Foreigners staying beyond a short visit must regularise their status through immigration and, for longer stays, obtain a residence permit (carte de séjour); in practice employers, sponsors or host organisations handle most of the paperwork and know the current requirements, which are not well documented online. There is no modern online portal, so expect in-person visits, photocopies, photographs and some waiting. Registering separately with your own embassy or consulate is strongly advisable given how limited local support is if something goes wrong.
Deadline: Sort your residence status before your entry visa or arrival stamp expires. The standard visa or entry permission granted on arrival is typically valid for up to 45 days and must be extended or converted to a longer-stay permit before then; do not let it lapse.
Where: The Directorate of Immigration and the border police (Police aux Frontières) in Moroni handle entry status and residence permits; your own embassy or consulate (frequently accredited from Antananarivo, Dar es Salaam or Paris) handles citizen registration.
Documents to keep handy:
- A passport valid for at least six months with your entry visa or arrival stamp, plus several photocopies kept separately from the original.
- Passport-sized photographs (bring a batch), which are needed for the residence permit, SIM registration in some shops and other paperwork.
- Your employment contract, sponsorship letter or invitation, which the authorities and your sponsor will need to process a residence permit (carte de séjour).
- Proof of accommodation or a landlord's letter, useful for both the residence permit and for opening a bank account.
- An international vaccination record; a yellow-fever certificate may be required if you arrive from an endemic country, and it is worth having up to date anyway.
- Your international health-insurance policy documents showing medical-evacuation cover, kept both on paper and on your phone.
Getting around
There is no ride-hailing and no formal public bus network anywhere in the country. Getting around means shared taxis (taxi-brousse) that run fixed routes for a small per-seat fare, private taxis whose price you negotiate up front, and, between the islands, small boats or short domestic flights. Roads are often narrow, potholed and unlit, and driving standards are relaxed, so many newcomers rely on trusted drivers rather than renting a car at first.
From the airport: Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport (HAH), also called Hahaya, is about 20 km north of Moroni. A private taxi into the city costs roughly 5,000-10,000 KMF and should be agreed before you set off; arranging a pickup through your hotel or employer is the safest option, especially at night when the road is dark and shared taxis stop running.
Finding a home
Most rentals are found through word of mouth, personal contacts, employers and Facebook groups rather than formal agencies, and many of the better homes are never advertised at all. Expect basic infrastructure as standard, so prioritise a property with a working water tank, a generator or solar backup and a location with a reasonable commute. Viewing in person before you commit is essential, as photos rarely reflect reality.
Typical rent: A modest furnished flat or house in or near Moroni runs roughly 100,000-300,000 KMF a month; higher-standard housing with reliable backup power, air conditioning and a compound costs more, while smaller towns and the outer islands are considerably cheaper.
Deposit norm: Landlords commonly ask for one to three months' rent up front, sometimes combining a deposit with several months paid in advance. Terms are negotiated directly, often verbally, and are rarely set out in a formal written contract, so agree the details clearly and, if you can, get key points in writing or over WhatsApp.
Healthcare
Public healthcare is very limited across all three islands; El-Maarouf hospital in Moroni is the main referral facility but is chronically under-resourced and short of supplies, staff and equipment. Serious conditions typically require medical evacuation to Mayotte, Réunion, Madagascar, Tanzania, Kenya or South Africa, which is expensive and slow to arrange without insurance in place beforehand.
How to access it: For routine care, use a private clinic or a pharmacy in Moroni and pay in cash on the spot. Keep a personal stock of any regular prescription medicines you need, along with a basic first-aid kit, because availability is unreliable and specific brands are frequently unavailable, particularly on Anjouan and Mohéli.
Insurance: There is no meaningful public health cover for foreigners and no reciprocal arrangements to rely on. Comprehensive international health insurance that explicitly includes emergency medical evacuation and repatriation is essential given the near-total absence of advanced local care; do not travel here without it.
Culture & etiquette
- The Comoros is a conservative Sunni Muslim country, so dress modestly: cover shoulders and knees, and women should carry a headscarf for mosques, official visits and rural areas.
- Greet people warmly and unhurriedly; take time over greetings and small talk before any business, as a slower, relationship-first pace is normal and rushing is read as rude.
- Use your right hand for eating, giving and receiving, and remove your shoes when entering someone's home or a mosque.
- Accept offers of tea, food or hospitality graciously, as sharing is central to Comorian social life and refusing outright can cause offence.
- During Ramadan, avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight hours out of respect, and expect shorter working hours and a slower pace.
- Learn a few words of Shikomori and use French for anything official; even basic effort in the local language is warmly received.
- Respect the importance of the extended family and of the grand mariage (traditional wedding) tradition, which carries deep social significance, especially on Grande Comore.
Things to watch out for
- Alcohol is restricted and not part of public life; drink only in the few licensed venues or private settings, never offer it casually, and never drink in public.
- Ask permission before photographing people, particularly women, and avoid photographing government buildings, the port, the airport and military or police sites.
- Public displays of affection between couples are frowned upon, so keep physical contact and behaviour restrained in public.
- Relationships and conduct outside marriage are socially and, in some respects, legally sensitive; be discreet and respect local norms.
- Avoid political discussions with strangers and steer clear of protests, roadblocks or gatherings, which can turn tense around elections.
Apps to download before you land
The default way to reach landlords, drivers, employers, colleagues and shopkeepers; almost all everyday communication, including quotes and arrangements, happens here.
Facebook / Marketplace
Local groups and Marketplace are the main places to find housing, buy and sell furniture and appliances, and follow community and expat news.
Maps.me or Google Maps (offline)
Download offline maps before you need them, as live coverage of Comorian streets is patchy and data drops out during power cuts.
XE Currency
Check the euro-to-franc rate against the fixed peg so you are not short-changed by informal money-changers or hotels.
Yas / MVola
The Telma-linked operator app and mobile-money service for topping up airtime, buying data bundles and sending money where it is accepted.
Google Translate (French offline pack)
Download the French language pack for offline use to help with signs, forms and conversations until your French improves.
Windy or a cyclone-tracking app
Follow weather and cyclone activity during the November-to-April season, when storms can disrupt flights, ferries and power.
Where newcomers live
Newcomers cluster in and around Moroni on Grande Comore, where most jobs, ministries and services are, with a smaller community in Mutsamudu on Anjouan. There are no polished expat suburbs; you choose between the busy old town, quieter residential and coastal areas nearby, or the greener outer islands. Prioritise reliable water, backup power and a short commute over any notion of a fashionable address, and rely on word of mouth to find the best homes.
Moroni (city centre / Medina)
The historic heart around the old port and the Friday Mosque, dense with markets, boutiques, banks and government offices. Atmospheric and central but noisy, crowded and short on parking and modern housing.
Itsandra / coastal north of Moroni
A calmer coastal stretch just north of the capital with beaches, the Itsandra hotel and quieter residential plots. Popular with expats and better-off locals wanting sea air within a short drive of town.
Coulée / upper residential Moroni
Newer residential districts on the higher ground above the old town, with more spacious houses and compounds. Often better placed for generators and water tanks, and favoured by families and longer-term residents.
Volo-Volo (market district)
The commercial and market zone of Moroni, chaotic and lively, where you shop rather than ideally live. Handy if you want everything on your doorstep and do not mind constant bustle and traffic.
Mutsamudu (Anjouan)
The port capital of Anjouan, greener and steeper than Moroni, with a medieval-feeling medina and the country's main harbour. The base for those working on Anjouan, but more isolated and with fewer services than Grande Comore.
Fomboni (Mohéli)
The small, sleepy capital of Mohéli, close to the marine park and quiet beaches. Suited to conservation and nature work; extremely limited infrastructure, shops and connectivity, so only for the truly self-sufficient.
What things cost
The Comoros is inexpensive by Western standards but wages are very low, and imported goods, reliable housing and backup power push real expat costs higher than headline figures suggest. Fresh local food, shared taxis and simple housing are cheap; anything imported, air-conditioned or generator-backed is not. Budget for a cash lifestyle and for the hidden cost of coping with outages, such as fuel for a generator and stored water.
Staying safe & avoiding scams
The Comoros is generally calm and violent crime against foreigners is uncommon, but petty theft, opportunistic pickpocketing and occasional break-ins do happen, so keep cash and valuables secure and avoid flashing phones or money in markets and crowds. The bigger risks are practical rather than criminal: poor and unlit roads, unreliable ferries between the islands, cyclone season roughly from November to April, and volcanic activity on Mount Karthala. Politics can be tense around elections and occasional protests or roadblocks occur, so avoid demonstrations, follow local advice, and remember that emergency response and hospital care are very limited, which makes good insurance with evacuation cover essential.
Newcomers are common targets. Know these before you arrive — and read our guide to avoiding immigration scams.
Airport and taxi overcharging
With no metered taxis and no published fares, drivers at Prince Said Ibrahim Airport and around town may quote inflated prices to arriving foreigners, sometimes several times the local rate. Always agree the fare before getting in, ask a local or your hotel what the run should cost, and pay in Comorian francs rather than euros, which invites a poor mental exchange rate in the driver's favour.
Fake fixers and paperwork 'helpers'
Newcomers are sometimes approached by people offering to speed up visas, residence permits, housing or island tours for an upfront fee, then either disappearing or inflating the cost once you have paid. Because so much runs informally it can be hard to tell a genuine helper from a chancer, so use only contacts vetted by your employer, embassy or established residents, and never hand over your original passport.
Poor exchange rates on cash
Informal money-changers, some shops and a few hotels offer euro-to-franc rates noticeably below the fixed peg of about 492 KMF to the euro, pocketing the difference. Change money at a bank or a reputable, recommended bureau, know the peg rate before you start, and always count your notes carefully before walking away.
Advance-payment rental traps
Because rentals are arranged informally and often sight-unseen through Facebook or intermediaries, some people are pressured to pay several months' rent or a large deposit before seeing the property or meeting the real owner. Never pay in full before viewing in person and confirming the landlord's identity, and be wary of anyone who insists on immediate cash to 'hold' a place.
Frequently asked questions
Can I get by on cards, or do I need cash?
You need cash. Cards are accepted almost nowhere outside a couple of upmarket hotels, and the ATMs at BFC and Exim Bank in Moroni are scarce and often empty. Bring euros to change at close to the fixed peg and always keep a cash reserve, ideally split between two places.
Do I need to speak French?
Effectively, yes. Everyday conversation is in Shikomori, but all official, banking and business life runs in French, and very few people outside aid circles and some hotels speak English. Even basic French will transform your daily experience, and a handful of Shikomori greetings earns instant goodwill.
Is the tap water safe to drink?
No. Treat tap water as unsafe everywhere in the country and stick to bottled, or properly filtered and boiled, water. Supply is also intermittent, so keep a stored reserve at home for the frequent cuts, and buy a few large bottles as soon as you arrive.
How reliable is electricity?
Power cuts are frequent and can last several hours, and are often longer on Anjouan and Mohéli. Choose accommodation with a generator or solar backup, and keep a power bank, torch and candles to hand. Treat outages as a normal part of the routine rather than an emergency.
How do I handle a medical emergency?
Local care is very limited and there is no working national ambulance number, so save the direct number of El-Maarouf hospital and a private clinic in advance. Serious cases usually require evacuation abroad, so carry international insurance with medical-evacuation cover before you arrive.
Do I legally have to register my residence?
Yes. Foreigners staying beyond a short visit must regularise their status through immigration and obtain a residence permit (carte de séjour) for longer stays. Your employer or sponsor usually handles the paperwork, which is done in person with photocopies and photographs, so start well before your entry stamp expires.
How do I get between the three islands?
Either a short domestic flight or a boat. Small airlines link Grande Comore, Anjouan and Mohéli, while ferries and small boats also run, though both can be unreliable, weather-dependent and safety-variable. Build in buffer time and treat published schedules as approximate rather than fixed.
Is the Comoros safe for foreigners?
Generally, yes; violent crime against foreigners is uncommon and the society is welcoming. The main risks are practical: petty theft, poor unlit roads, unreliable boats, cyclones from November to April, volcanic activity on Mount Karthala, and occasional political tension around elections. Stay insured, avoid protests, and keep valuables discreet.
How do I find somewhere to live?
Through word of mouth, your employer, personal contacts and local Facebook groups, rather than formal agencies. The best homes are often never advertised. Always view in person before paying anything, confirm the landlord is genuine, and prioritise reliable water and backup power over appearances.
What should I know about local customs before I go out?
The Comoros is a conservative Muslim society, so dress modestly, use your right hand for eating and greetings, and remove your shoes in homes and mosques. Avoid alcohol in public, ask before photographing people, and keep affection between couples private. Warm, unhurried greetings open almost every door here.
Planning the move, not just the landing?
This guide covers your first days on the ground. If you’re still weighing visas and pathways to Comoros, start with a free eligibility assessment.