Just Landed in Eritrea? Your First 7 Days

Internet in Eritrea is among the slowest and least available anywhere in the world. Mobile data was only rolled out relatively recently and remains limited, expensive and frequently throttled or interrupted, and there is no reliable home broadband to speak of. Most residents get online through Wi-Fi at hotels, offices and internet cafes on shared, slow connections. Download offline maps, documents, translation packs and anything else you will need before you arrive, and keep your expectations very low.

Typical cost: A registered SIM and small starter data allowance run to a few hundred Nakfa, but data bundles are small and comparatively costly, so most people ration mobile data heavily and lean on cafe or office Wi-Fi for anything data-intensive.

Eritrea is a cash-only society running entirely on the Nakfa (ERN). Foreign cards are effectively unusable, no ATM will serve an international card, and there are strict legal limits on how much Nakfa you may hold and move across the border. Budget your whole stay around physical cash, change money only at authorised banks, and keep every receipt so you can account for your spending on departure.

Opening an account: Retail banking is dominated by the state-owned Commercial Bank of Eritrea, alongside the Housing and Commerce Bank of Eritrea. Opening an account as a foreigner requires a valid residence permit plus employer or sponsor documentation, and even then services are basic and domestic. Many shorter-term expats never open an account and simply operate on declared, changed cash throughout their stay.

Cash: Cash covers essentially everything, from rent and groceries to clinic bills and taxis. Carry a mix of small Nakfa notes, because change for larger denominations is often unavailable and vendors may turn away a big note. There is no meaningful card, tap or mobile-money infrastructure to fall back on, so running low on cash genuinely leaves you stuck.

Tipping: Tipping is modest and appreciated rather than expected. Rounding up the bill or leaving around 5 to 10 percent in a restaurant is generous, and a few Nakfa for porters, guides and helpful staff is a normal courtesy.

Foreign residents must obtain a residence permit and be registered with the immigration authorities, who record your address and status; in practice employers or sponsors handle much of the process on your behalf. Entrants coming to reside are generally expected to hold a passport valid for at least one year, and you will typically submit a completed application form with passport photographs. Once resident, carry your identification and permit documentation at all times, as you may be asked to produce it at checkpoints or by officials.

Deadline: Regularise your residence and register promptly after arrival, well within the validity of your entry visa, and do not let your permitted stay lapse before applying. There is no reliable grace period, so start the process in your first days rather than leaving it.

Where: Department of Immigration & Nationality in Asmara, normally attended together with, or handled by, your employer or sponsor.

Asmara is compact, flat in the centre and very walkable, and most residents get around on foot, by shared minibus or on the small city buses that run fixed routes for a few Nakfa. There are no ride-hailing apps at all; you flag down a taxi in the street or arrange a trusted driver directly through your hotel or contacts. Always remember that any travel beyond the city limits requires a government travel permit obtained in advance.

From the airport: Asmara International Airport (ASM) sits roughly 6 km southeast of the centre, about a ten to fifteen minute drive. Taxis are the standard way in and rarely use meters, so agree the fare in Nakfa before you set off. There are no app-based options, so if you can, arrange a pickup through your hotel or host in advance and confirm the price with them first.

Housing is scarce, tightly controlled and found mostly through word of mouth, employers or local contacts rather than online portals, which barely exist for Eritrea. Many expats simply live in accommodation arranged by their employer, embassy or organisation. In Asmara you will mostly find older Italian-era apartments and villas, characterful but often needing maintenance, with limited choice at any price point.

Typical rent: Rents are quoted and paid in Nakfa cash and vary widely with location, size and condition; a modest central Asmara flat commonly runs from several thousand Nakfa a month upward, with supply constraints often mattering more than the headline figure. Furnished, expat-standard properties are limited and command a premium.

Deposit norm: Landlords typically ask for one to a few months' rent up front in cash, and arrangements are informal and negotiated directly. Get any agreement written down, keep a receipt for every single payment, and where possible have a trusted local contact present when you agree terms.

Healthcare is basic and under-resourced, with the country's best facilities concentrated in Asmara and very limited provision elsewhere. Serious conditions frequently require medical evacuation to Nairobi, Cairo or beyond, so comprehensive international insurance with genuine evacuation cover is essential rather than optional. Bring a personal supply of any regular medication, as pharmacies are often short of stock and specific brands may be unavailable.

How to access it: For care in Asmara, go directly to a facility such as Orotta National Referral Hospital or the private Sembel Hospital rather than relying on an ambulance, which can be slow or unavailable. Expect to pay in cash at the point of care and to keep detailed receipts for any later insurance claim. For anything beyond routine treatment, contact your insurer's assistance line early to coordinate evacuation if needed.

Insurance: There is no local system that foreigners can depend on, so arrange international private health insurance that explicitly covers Eritrea and includes emergency medical evacuation before you travel. Carry the policy number and the 24-hour assistance number both on your phone and on paper, since you may need them when you cannot get online.

• Greet people warmly and unhurriedly; a handshake and a few polite words before getting to business are expected, and taking time over greetings signals respect.
• Accept the traditional coffee ceremony if offered and allow time for all three rounds, as declining outright can seem cold; it is a genuine and important gesture of hospitality.
• Dress modestly, especially around religious sites and in the countryside; Eritrea is roughly split between Orthodox Christians and Muslims, and conservative dress is respected everywhere.
• Use your right hand for eating, giving and receiving, particularly when sharing injera from a communal plate, as the left hand is considered unclean.
• Learn a few words of Tigrinya greeting such as a friendly 'selam'; even small efforts are warmly received and open doors socially.
• Remove your shoes when entering a home if others have, and wait to be shown where to sit rather than seating yourself.
• Show deference to elders, letting them speak, be served and be greeted first, which is a strong social norm across communities.

• Never photograph government buildings, military sites, bridges, dams, the airport, ports or checkpoints; doing so can lead to detention, and even ordinary street photography can attract suspicion.
• Avoid discussing politics, national service, religion or any criticism of the government in public; conversations can be overheard and the environment is closely monitored.
• Do not travel outside Asmara or near border areas without a valid government travel permit, as checkpoints are frequent and enforcement is uncompromising.
• Be cautious about who you discuss sensitive topics with online or by phone, and assume communications may not be private.
• Respect prayer times, fasting periods and religious observances, and do not eat, drink or smoke conspicuously in front of those observing them.