Just Landed in Ghana? Your First 7 Days

Mobile data is cheap, widely available and how most people get online; fixed home broadband is patchy and slower to install, so many residents run their homes off a mobile router. Buy a local SIM on day one and rely on data bundles rather than pay-as-you-go rates, which are far more expensive. MTN has the strongest and most consistent coverage across the country, with Telecel and AirtelTigo as competitive alternatives in the cities.

Typical cost: GHS 50-150/month for a generous data bundle; a starter SIM costs only a few cedis and registration is free

Ghana is overwhelmingly a cash and mobile-money economy. Cards work in upmarket Accra hotels, supermarkets like Shoprite and Marina Mall, and petrol stations, but fail almost everywhere else, so carry cash and use MoMo for everyday spending. The cedi has been volatile against the dollar in recent years, so larger costs such as rent, cars and school fees are frequently quoted in US dollars.

Opening an account: Opening an account as a foreigner is possible but bureaucratic. Banks such as Ecobank, Stanbic, Absa, GCB, Fidelity and Zenith typically require your passport, a residence or work permit, a Ghana Card (or proof it is being processed), proof of address and often a reference from an existing customer. Expect several visits, form-filling and delays of days to weeks before the account is fully active.

Cash: Cash is king outside major retailers, and small denominations matter because change is often scarce. Mobile money, principally MTN MoMo, is accepted almost universally, including by taxis, market traders, food joints and small shops; a merchant will simply give you a MoMo number or point to a till code. Keep a mix of small notes and a funded MoMo wallet and you can pay for anything.

Tipping: Tipping is not obligatory but is appreciated. In restaurants that do not add a service charge, rounding up or leaving 5-10% is a kind gesture, and small tips to porters, fuel attendants, car washers, drivers and security guards are customary and go a long way.

Foreigners intending to stay beyond their entry permit must regularise their status with a residence permit issued by the Ghana Immigration Service (GIS), and long-stay non-citizens are also required to obtain a Non-Citizen Ghana Card from the National Identification Authority (NIA). If you are employed, your company normally sponsors and drives the work permit and residence permit process, submitting the bulk of the paperwork on your behalf. Processing is slow and document-heavy, so start early and keep certified copies of everything. There is no simple same-day address-registration counter as in some countries; your legal 'registration' effectively happens through the residence permit and Ghana Card.

Deadline: Apply for or extend your residence permit before your entry visa or permit expires, commonly within 30-90 days of arrival depending on your visa class; overstaying attracts fines and complications

Where: Ghana Immigration Service headquarters in Accra (near Ako Adjei Interchange) or regional GIS offices; the Non-Citizen Ghana Card is issued through the National Identification Authority (NIA)

Accra has no metro or organised mass transit; people move by shared minibuses (trotros), taxis, and ride-hailing apps. Trotros are extremely cheap (a few cedis) but confusing for newcomers because routes are learned by word of mouth and destinations are called out by the 'mate' hanging from the door. Most expats rely on Bolt, Uber and Yango, which are affordable, air-conditioned and far easier for getting your bearings. Traffic in Accra is heavy, especially at rush hour, so allow generous time.

From the airport: Kotoka International Airport (ACC) sits just 8-12 km from central Accra. A Bolt, Uber or Yango ride to Osu, Cantonments, Labone or Airport Residential typically costs around GHS 40-90 and takes 20-45 minutes depending on traffic; official airport taxis charge more and the fare should always be agreed upfront before you set off.

Expats and returnees concentrate in Accra neighbourhoods such as Cantonments, Airport Residential, East Legon, Labone, Osu, Ridge and Dzorwulu. The market is landlord-friendly and dominated by agents, so most people find a place through a recommended agent or WhatsApp groups rather than a single listings site. Furnished short-lets and serviced apartments exist for a soft landing, but longer unfurnished leases demand very large upfront payments.

Typical rent: A furnished one- or two-bedroom in a good Accra area runs roughly USD 800-2,000 per month, and rents in these areas are frequently quoted and paid in US dollars rather than cedis

Deposit norm: Landlords routinely demand one to two years' rent paid in advance, which is entrenched practice despite a legal cap of six months, so budget for a very large lump sum and try to negotiate the term down

Public hospitals are stretched and often under-resourced, with long waits and variable supplies, so most expats use private clinics and hospitals in Accra for anything beyond the routine. Standards at leading private facilities are decent for everyday and moderate care, but for complex surgery, intensive care or serious emergencies, medical evacuation to South Africa or Europe is sometimes arranged, which is why evacuation cover matters.

How to access it: For most needs you simply walk into a private hospital such as Nyaho Medical Centre, The Bank Hospital, or The Trust Hospital in Accra, or Kumasi's private facilities, then pay at the point of service and claim back on your insurance. There is no gatekeeping GP referral system to navigate first. Bring a stock of any regular medication, as specific brands can be hard to find, and keep prescriptions with you.

Insurance: Comprehensive private international health insurance that includes emergency evacuation is strongly recommended for expats. The National Health Insurance Scheme (NHIS) is aimed at residents and offers only limited, basic coverage at public facilities; it is a useful supplement but no substitute for proper private cover.

• Greet people warmly before getting to business; a handshake and asking about someone's day is expected, and skipping straight to your request comes across as rude.
• Use your right hand for giving, receiving, eating and pointing; the left hand is considered unclean and using it can cause quiet offence.
• Dress modestly and neatly, especially for offices, churches, funerals and official appointments; Ghanaians place real value on looking presentable.
• Show clear respect to elders and those in authority, and use titles generously, such as Sir, Madam, Auntie, Uncle, Chief or a person's professional title.
• Be patient and good-humoured with delays; raising your voice or showing visible anger in public loses you respect and rarely speeds anything up.
• Accept and offer hospitality graciously; being offered water or food is a sign of welcome, and declining outright can seem cold.
• Ask before photographing people, and expect that funerals are major, well-attended social events where turning up when invited is a meaningful gesture.

• Photographing government buildings, the airport, military or police installations can cause serious trouble; put the camera away around anything official.
• Ghana is socially conservative and same-sex relationships are criminalised, so LGBTQ+ newcomers should be cautious and discreet.
• Religion is central to daily life for both Christians and Muslims; avoid dismissive or joking comments about faith.
• 'Ghana time' is real, with social and even business events often starting well after the stated hour, so build slack into your schedule.
• Public discussion of politics, ethnicity or chieftaincy disputes can be sensitive; listen more than you opine until you understand the context.