Just Landed in Iraq? Your First 7 Days

Mobile data is the backbone of connectivity in Iraq, and 4G coverage is solid across the main cities though it thins out in rural and some checkpoint-heavy areas. Prepaid SIMs are cheap and quick once registered with your passport, and almost everyone runs their daily life, including banking-style transactions and business, over WhatsApp on mobile data. Fixed home broadband is patchy and often runs through local wireless ISPs rather than reliable fibre, so many households simply tether or use a mobile router.

Typical cost: A prepaid SIM costs roughly 5,000-15,000 IQD, and monthly data bundles run from about 15,000 IQD for a few gigabytes up to around 50,000 IQD for 30GB, varying by operator and promotion.

Iraq runs overwhelmingly on cash, with the US dollar used alongside the dinar for rent, cars and large purchases while the dinar handles everyday spending. The exchange rate sits around 1,300-1,320 IQD to the US dollar, though a gap between the official and street rates can appear. Card acceptance is growing in Erbil and upmarket Baghdad venues but remains the exception, and ATMs can be unreliable, out of cash or offline, so never depend on plastic.

Opening an account: Opening an account usually needs your passport, your residency permit and often a local sponsor or employer letter, and it can take time. Rafidain and Rasheed are the main state banks; foreigner-friendlier private options include the Trade Bank of Iraq (TBI), Byblos Bank, RT Bank and Cihan/RT-style Kurdish banks, with Erbil generally offering more international-facing choices than the south.

Cash: Carry cash for nearly everything, keep a stock of small dinar notes for taxis, tips and small shops, and expect landlords and car sellers to insist on US dollars. Count change carefully, inspect larger notes for damage, and keep dollars pristine, since torn or written-on notes are commonly refused.

Tipping: Tipping (baksheesh) is customary but modest: round up taxi fares, tip porters and petrol attendants a small amount, and leave around 10% in restaurants that do not already add a service charge.

Foreigners staying beyond a short visit must obtain a residency permit and register their presence with the authorities, a process normally initiated and driven by your employer or sponsor rather than something you complete alone online. It typically involves handing over your passport, photos and a medical test result, and the responsible office and exact requirements differ between federal Iraq and the Kurdistan Region, which run separate systems. Missing the window can complicate your legal status, so treat it as your top administrative priority in week one.

Deadline: Foreigners are generally expected to register with the Directorate of Residence within about 10 days of arrival, with the full residency permit application following soon after; confirm the exact window with your sponsor as it varies by visa type and region.

Where: The Residency Directorate (Iqama/Residence office) in federal Iraq, or the Residency Directorate in Erbil, Sulaymaniyah or Duhok for the Kurdistan Region.

Shared taxis, private taxis and app-based rides dominate urban travel, and there is very little organised public transport that a newcomer can rely on. Intercity movement usually means shared cars, private drivers or buses, and some routes cross checkpoints where you must show ID and may be questioned, so keep documents handy. Traffic is dense and driving assertive, so most new arrivals stick to trusted drivers at first.

From the airport: From Baghdad International Airport you first clear a security zone and transfer via an official taxi or authorised shuttle to the outer terminal, then continue by taxi into the city, roughly 30-45 minutes depending on checkpoints. Erbil International Airport and Basra International Airport both have official taxi desks; agree the fare in advance and, where possible, have your employer or hotel send a known driver.

Most newcomers find housing through local brokers, employers or word of mouth rather than polished listing sites, and compounds or serviced flats are the norm for expats in Erbil and Baghdad. Contracts are often short and semi-informal, rent is frequently quoted and paid in US dollars, and you will usually negotiate directly with a landlord over WhatsApp. Always clarify separately how the generator (ampere) supply and water are billed, as these are rarely included.

Typical rent: A modern one to two bedroom flat runs roughly 400-900 USD per month in Erbil or central Baghdad, with secured expat compounds and gated villas costing considerably more, sometimes several thousand dollars a month.

Deposit norm: Deposits are negotiable and practices vary: landlords commonly ask for one to a few months upfront, and some request six months or a full year in advance, especially for better properties, so budget for a large initial cash outlay in dollars.

Public hospitals are free at the point of use but stretched, under-resourced and often overwhelmed, so most expats and better-off residents use private clinics and hospitals, which are far quicker and better equipped. Pharmacies are widespread, well stocked and dispense many medicines without a prescription, which is useful for minor issues but no substitute for proper diagnosis. Standards vary widely, and complex or serious cases are frequently referred abroad.

How to access it: For non-emergencies, go directly to a private clinic or hospital and pay cash on the day; in Erbil and Baghdad several private hospitals cater to internationals and have some English-speaking staff. For emergencies, call 122 for an ambulance or, often faster, go straight to the nearest hospital A&E with someone who can translate.

Insurance: There is no universal health insurance for foreigners, so arrange comprehensive private international health insurance with regional cover and, crucially, medical evacuation cover before or immediately on arrival, since serious cases are often stabilised locally and then flown to Turkey, Jordan or beyond.

• Dress modestly, particularly women, and be more conservative in the south and centre than in relaxed parts of the Kurdistan Region.
• Greet elders and hosts first; a handshake is normal between men, but wait for a woman to extend her hand before offering yours.
• Accept offered tea (chai) or coffee when visiting, as sharing it is central to hospitality and flatly refusing can seem cold.
• Respect prayer times and Ramadan, avoiding eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight fasting hours.
• Use your right hand for eating, giving and receiving, and remove your shoes when entering a home if your host does.
• Ask before photographing people, especially women, and accept invitations to eat graciously, as hospitality is offered generously and sincerely.
• Learn a few Arabic or Kurdish courtesies (salam, shukran, or spas in Kurdish); the effort is warmly received.

• Do not photograph checkpoints, military, police or government buildings, which can lead to detention or confiscation of your phone.
• Steer clear of political, sectarian and religious arguments with people you do not know well.
• Follow official security advice and avoid protests and large crowds, which can escalate quickly and unpredictably.
• Carry ID at all times and cooperate calmly at checkpoints, where you will be stopped and questioned as routine.
• Be discreet with alcohol; it is available in parts of Kurdistan and some Baghdad venues but frowned upon elsewhere, and never drink and drive.