Just Landed in Kenya? Your First 7 Days

Mobile data is cheap, fast and the primary way people get online, and 4G coverage is strong across Nairobi, Mombasa and most towns, with 5G now live in parts of the major cities. Safaricom has the widest national reach and the most reliable network, Airtel is noticeably cheaper for data-heavy users, and Telkom and Faiba (JTL) compete on price in urban areas. Home fibre is common in Nairobi and Mombasa estates and worth arranging early if you work online.

Typical cost: Prepaid SIM starter packs cost around KES 100-200, and monthly data bundles run roughly KES 1,000-2,500 depending on volume; Safaricom, Airtel and Telkom all sell daily, weekly and monthly bundles via USSD or their apps. Home fibre from Safaricom, Faiba or Zuku costs about KES 3,000-6,000 per month for typical 15-40 Mbps household plans.

Kenya is overwhelmingly a mobile-money economy built around Safaricom's M-PESA, which is accepted almost everywhere from supermarkets and fuel stations to street stalls and matatus via a paybill or till number. Cards from Visa and Mastercard work in malls, hotels and larger restaurants but are far less useful for daily life, and many small vendors quietly prefer M-PESA to cash. Your phone effectively becomes your wallet within a week.

Opening an account: Foreigners can open accounts at Equity, KCB, Absa, Standard Chartered or NCBA with a passport, KRA PIN, proof of address and usually a valid work permit or Alien Card. Opening typically takes one to two weeks, some banks require an introductory reference from an existing customer, and most offer full mobile and internet banking plus integration with M-PESA. Equity and KCB have the densest branch and ATM networks nationwide.

Cash: Everyday spending flows through M-PESA rather than physical notes, though small vendors, matatus and rural traders still take shilling cash. Carry modest amounts, split your money across pockets, and avoid displaying large sums or counting cash in public. ATMs are widely available in malls and fuel stations but pick machines in secure, well-lit locations.

Tipping: Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory. Leaving around 10 percent at sit-down restaurants is common, and a small tip for safari guides, hotel porters, car washers and fuel-pump attendants is normal and warmly received; many restaurants add a service charge, so check the bill before adding more.

Kenya has no European-style local address registration at a town hall, but it does legally require foreign nationals who reside in the country for more than 90 days to register with the Directorate of Immigration Services and obtain a Foreign Nationals Certificate, commonly called the Alien Card. This applies to those on a work permit, dependant pass, student pass or permanent residence, while short-term visitors on a visitor or special pass are exempt. Separately, and just as importantly, you must apply for a KRA PIN in order to bank, rent formally or work. Diplomats, refugees and certain armed-forces personnel are exempt from the Alien Card.

Deadline: Register for the Alien Card once you have resided in Kenya for more than 90 days (or on approval of a long-term permit); failing to register carries a penalty, and the card is generally valid for two years (up to three for permanent residents) before renewal.

Where: Directorate of Immigration Services (Nyayo House, Nairobi, plus Huduma Centres and regional offices) for permits and the Foreign Nationals Certificate; Kenya Revenue Authority via the iTax portal for a KRA PIN.

Cities rely on matatus (shared minibuses), boda-bodas (motorbike taxis) and ride-hailing apps, with almost no urban rail beyond the limited Nairobi commuter line and the SGR intercity train to Mombasa. Nairobi traffic is heavy and unpredictable, so budget generous extra time, favour apps for safety and fixed fares, and avoid rush-hour trips where you can. Matatus are cheap and characterful but crowded and require local know-how for routes and stops.

From the airport: From Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA), an Uber, Bolt or Little to central Nairobi or Westlands costs roughly KES 1,200-2,500 and takes 30-60 minutes depending on Mombasa Road traffic. The official airport taxi desk offers fixed fares, and many hotels and serviced apartments arrange pickups for around KES 2,500-3,500. Wilson Airport, used for domestic and safari flights, sits closer to the city centre in the south.

Most newcomers rent through agents or personal referrals in gated estates and apartment blocks, and the most popular Nairobi areas for expats include Westlands, Kilimani, Lavington, Kileleshwa, Karen and Runda. Furnished serviced apartments are widely available for shorter stays and soft landings, and listings appear on BuyRentKenya, Property24 and local Facebook groups, though the best deals still come by word of mouth. Viewing in person before paying anything is essential.

Typical rent: A one-bedroom in a good Nairobi suburb runs roughly KES 40,000-90,000 per month, while two- and three-bedroom family homes in areas like Lavington, Karen or Runda commonly range KES 90,000-250,000. Furnished serviced apartments cost more per month but bundle in utilities, security, cleaning and sometimes a gym and pool.

Deposit norm: Landlords typically ask for one to three months' rent as a refundable deposit plus the first month upfront, and often a separate service charge for security, water and grounds. Insist on a written tenancy agreement, get a dated receipt for every payment, and never wire a deposit before viewing the property and confirming the landlord's identity.

Kenya has a mix of public and private care, and expats overwhelmingly use well-regarded private hospitals such as Nairobi Hospital, Aga Khan University Hospital, MP Shah and The Karen Hospital in Nairobi, and Aga Khan and Mombasa Hospital at the coast. Private care in the major cities is genuinely good, but it is pay-as-you-go, so you need either insurance or ready funds. Public facilities are cheaper but often crowded and under-resourced.

How to access it: For non-emergencies, book directly with a private hospital outpatient department or a clinic, as GP-style gatekeeping is minimal and you can walk in or call ahead. For emergencies dial 999 or 112, but also call a private ambulance service such as E-Plus, St John or AMREF Flying Doctors, since state ambulance response is unreliable. Keep cash or a card ready, because private facilities frequently require a deposit on admission.

Insurance: The national scheme (the Social Health Authority's SHIF, which replaced NHIF) is designed for residents and requires registration and contributions, but most expats buy comprehensive private or international health insurance from providers such as Jubilee, AAR, Britam, CIC or Bupa Global. Confirm your policy is accepted at your preferred hospital, covers outpatient care and, crucially, includes medical evacuation given the distances involved.

• Greet before getting to business; a handshake and a friendly 'Habari' or 'Jambo' sets the right tone and is expected before any transaction.
• Use titles and show visible respect to elders and officials, and lower your voice; patience and politeness get far better results than pushing or raising your voice.
• Dress modestly outside beach and nightlife settings, especially at the coast, in rural areas and in Muslim-majority neighbourhoods where covered shoulders and knees are appreciated.
• Always ask before photographing people, and negotiate prices in markets calmly and with humour rather than aggressively.
• Accept and give with your right hand (or both hands) as a mark of respect, particularly when dealing with elders.
• Embrace 'pole pole' (slowly, slowly); appointments and bureaucracy run on a relaxed clock, so build in buffer time and stay gracious about delays.
• Reciprocate hospitality warmly; if invited to a home or offered chai, accepting graciously matters more than the food itself.

• Avoid discussing tribal or ethnic politics with people you have just met, as ethnicity remains a genuinely sensitive and sometimes charged subject.
• Public displays of affection and openly LGBTQ+ behaviour can draw hostility or legal risk, as same-sex relations remain criminalised under Kenyan law.
• Do not photograph government buildings, the airport, bridges, police or military installations, which can lead to detention.
• Be cautious around protests and political demonstrations, which can turn tense quickly; avoid the area and follow local news and embassy advisories.
• Do not hand your passport or ID to anyone claiming to be an official on the street without seeing proper identification; ask to go to a police station.