Just Landed in Kiribati? Your First 7 Days

Mobile data is the primary way to get online, and realistically only on South Tarawa and Kiritimati. Kiribati was connected to the East Micronesia Cable and improved subsea and satellite links have lifted South Tarawa speeds in recent years, but outages remain common and the outer atolls still depend on expensive, intermittent satellite. Home fixed-line broadband is rare, so most expats tether from a phone.

Typical cost: A registered prepaid SIM costs only a few AUD. Data bundles run roughly AUD 10-30 for several gigabytes, and both price-per-gigabyte and speeds are markedly worse than in Australia or New Zealand. Buy top-ups at telecom offices and small shops in Betio and Bairiki, and keep a bundle active as your main lifeline for WhatsApp and email.

Kiribati uses the Australian dollar and runs almost entirely on cash. ATMs and card acceptance exist only in South Tarawa and on Kiritimati; the outer islands have neither, so carry all the cash you will need before travelling anywhere beyond Tarawa. There is no local currency, so exchange-rate risk is simply whatever the AUD is doing.

Opening an account: ANZ Bank (Kiribati), the successor to the old Bank of Kiribati, is effectively the only retail bank, with branches in Bairiki and on Kiritimati; the Development Bank of Kiribati handles lending rather than everyday accounts. Opening an account as a foreigner is slow and typically needs your passport, proof of a local address and often a residence or work permit plus an employer letter. Many short-term expats skip it entirely and live on cash withdrawn from overseas cards.

Cash: Cash is king. Markets, minibuses, small shops, taxis and guesthouses take only AUD notes and coins, and change for large notes can be scarce. Keep a stock of small denominations for daily use and never assume a card terminal will be available.

Tipping: Tipping is not part of Kiribati culture and is not expected in restaurants, taxis or hotels. Rounding up or offering a small gift for genuine help is appreciated but never required, and pushing money on people can feel awkward rather than generous.

There is no routine local address-registration requirement for arriving residents, and no equivalent of the address-registration systems used across much of Europe. What governs your stay is your entry permit or work/residence permit issued by the Immigration Division. Keep those documents valid, respect their conditions, and carry copies at all times. If you are working, your employer will usually handle the permit process, but the legal responsibility to remain in status is yours.

Where: Immigration Division, Ministry of Justice, Bairiki, South Tarawa, for any visa, entry-permit or residence-permit matters.

There are no ride-hailing apps in Kiribati. Getting around South Tarawa means shared minibuses that run along the single main road and stop on demand, plus a small number of unmetered private taxis. There is no railway. Boats and infrequent, weather-dependent flights operated by Air Kiribati link Tarawa to the outer islands, while Fiji Airways and occasional regional services connect Tarawa to the outside world.

From the airport: Bonriki International Airport (TRW) sits about 21 km east of Bairiki, roughly a 40-60 minute drive depending on traffic and causeway conditions. Take a shared minibus for a couple of AUD, or a taxi for about AUD 20-40; always agree the fare before departing, as meters are not used. There is no airport bus or rail link, so arrange your first ride in advance where possible.

Formal rental stock is scarce and concentrated in South Tarawa, and there is no functioning listings market like Rightmove or Domain. Most expats arrive with employer-provided or employer-arranged housing, and independent searches rely on word of mouth through churches, workplaces and Facebook community groups rather than agents. Expect basic amenities, rainwater tanks, generators for backup power and simple construction.

Typical rent: A modest local house or unit rents from a few hundred AUD a month, while the limited stock of Western-standard expat housing in South Tarawa (air conditioning, reliable water, generator) can run to roughly AUD 1,000-2,500 a month. Because supply is so thin, prices are driven more by who you know and what your employer arranges than by any published market rate.

Deposit norm: Deposits are informal and negotiable, commonly one month's rent in advance where a deposit is asked at all. Get any agreement in writing where you can, and clarify who pays for water, power, generator fuel and repairs before you move in, as these are often ambiguous.

Healthcare is very basic by international standards. Tungaru Central Hospital in Nawerewere, South Tarawa, is the national referral facility, supported by health clinics on some islands, but specialist care, diagnostics, reliable medication supply and even basic equipment are limited. Serious cases are stabilised locally and then evacuated overseas, so this is not a place to rely on the local system for anything major.

How to access it: Public clinics and Tungaru Central Hospital treat residents at low or no cost, but expect long waits, crowding and shortages of drugs and supplies. Bring a personal supply of any prescription medication you depend on, plus a basic first-aid kit, since you cannot count on pharmacies stocking what you need. For anything serious, plan on being medevaced to Fiji, Australia or New Zealand.

Insurance: Public care is minimal and pharmacies unreliable, so comprehensive international health insurance that explicitly covers emergency medical evacuation from Kiribati is essential for every newcomer. An evacuation to Fiji or Australia can cost tens of thousands of dollars, and without cover a medical emergency here can be financially and medically catastrophic.

• Learn a few words of Gilbertese: "Mauri" (hello) and "Ko rabwa" (thank you) go a long way and are warmly received.
• Dress modestly, especially away from the beach; women covering knees and shoulders is respected, and swimwear is strictly for the water only.
• Kiribati life is deeply church-centred, so expect Sunday to be quiet and treat services, the maneaba (meeting house) and religious events with respect.
• Remove your shoes before entering homes and the maneaba, and sit lower than or level with elders rather than standing over them.
• Greetings and unhurried conversation matter; take time to exchange pleasantries and ask after family before getting to business.
• Sharing is central to island life; accept offered food or drink graciously and reciprocate generosity when you can.
• Show deference to elders and community leaders (the unimwane), whose word carries real weight in village and maneaba affairs.

• Do not drink the tap or well water, and be cautious with reef fish, as ciguatera poisoning occurs; ask locals which species and reefs are safe.
• The atolls are extremely low-lying and exposed to king tides, storm surge, flooding and periodic drought, so always know your building's water and power situation.
• Photographing people, especially at churches, funerals or the maneaba, requires asking first out of basic courtesy.
• Island time is real; appointments, boats and flights are routinely delayed or cancelled, so keep every plan flexible and carry a buffer.
• Avoid public displays of anger or loud confrontation; keeping composure and settling matters quietly preserves respect on all sides.