Just Landed in Malawi? Your First 7 Days

Mobile data is the primary way to get online; fixed home broadband is limited and mainly available in Lilongwe and Blantyre. Coverage is decent in towns but patchy and slow in rural areas, and data is expensive relative to local incomes. Every SIM must be registered against your passport, so keep it with you when buying. Airtel and TNM compete on bundles, so it is worth comparing weekly and monthly data packs before committing.

Typical cost: A SIM is near-free; expect roughly MWK 15,000-45,000 per month for a usable data bundle, with prices changing often because of inflation. Home fibre in the cities from Access or Skyband typically runs higher and can involve an installation fee.

The kwacha is a soft currency that has devalued sharply in recent years (a large official devaluation in late 2023 pushed it past MWK 1,700 to the US dollar), so prices move and USD cash is prized. Card acceptance is growing in supermarkets, hotels and fuel stations in the cities, but cash is essential everywhere else. Foreign-currency shortages mean banks and bureaux sometimes cannot sell you dollars at all, so change money when you can.

Opening an account: Opening an account at National Bank of Malawi, Standard Bank, FDH Bank or NBS Bank usually needs a passport, a residence or employment permit, a TPIN from the Malawi Revenue Authority, and a proof of address or an introductory letter from your employer. Foreigners typically need residence status first, so a workplace or landlord letter smooths the process considerably. Expect it to take more than one visit.

Cash: Very cash-heavy: markets, minibuses, kabaza motorbike taxis, tips, rent and casual services are cash only. Carry small kwacha notes, because change is often scarce, and expect card machines to fail during network or power outages. Mobile money (Airtel Money, TNM Mpamba) fills many of the gaps that cards and cash leave.

Tipping: Tipping is modest and appreciated: round up or leave about 10% at sit-down restaurants that do not add a service charge, and give small notes to porters, car guards, guides and petrol attendants. Car guards who watch your vehicle in town car parks expect a small tip on your return.

There is no general local address-registration requirement for new arrivals as there is in much of continental Europe. What matters instead is holding the correct immigration status: a Temporary Employment Permit (TEP), business residence permit or study permit obtained through the Department of Immigration and Citizenship Services, plus a TPIN from the Malawi Revenue Authority if you will work or bank. Registering voluntarily with your own embassy or high commission is sensible for safety alerts and consular support, but it is not a legal obligation.

Where: Department of Immigration and Citizenship Services (main offices in Lilongwe and Blantyre) for entry, work and residence permits; the Malawi Revenue Authority for a TPIN taxpayer number.

Most people move by shared minibus, matola pickups on rural routes, and bicycle or motorbike taxis known as kabaza. There is no metro or reliable commuter rail. Longer intercity trips use coach operators such as AXA. Roads are mostly two-lane, unlit at night and shared with pedestrians, cyclists and livestock, so avoid driving after dark. App-based ride-hailing is limited to the two main cities and coverage can be thin, so most expats build up a short list of trusted private drivers reached by WhatsApp.

From the airport: From Kamuzu International Airport (KIA), Lilongwe, a pre-arranged hotel or private transfer is safest and usually costs around MWK 25,000-50,000 into the city (about 30 to 45 minutes). Blantyre is served by Chileka Airport with a similar private-transfer arrangement into town; agree the price before you get in.

Expats commonly rent houses in established Lilongwe suburbs such as Area 43, Area 10, Area 12 and Area 3, or in Blantyre neighbourhoods like Namiwawa, Mandala, Sunnyside and Nyambadwe. Homes are typically walled, with a guard, a borehole for water and a generator or solar backup for power. Furnished, serviced expat houses exist but cost far more than the local market. Most rentals are found through agents, employer connections, word of mouth and Facebook groups rather than large listing websites.

Typical rent: Local flats can be very cheap, but a secure expat-standard house in Lilongwe or Blantyre typically runs from roughly USD 800 to USD 2,500 or more per month, and prime properties are sometimes quoted in US dollars rather than kwacha.

Deposit norm: Landlords frequently ask for several months upfront: commonly a deposit plus two to three months' rent in advance, and sometimes six to twelve months for sought-after properties. Get the terms, the handover condition and who pays for the guard, water and generator fuel written down before you move in.

Public healthcare through Ministry of Health facilities, including Kamuzu Central Hospital in Lilongwe and Queen Elizabeth Central Hospital in Blantyre, is free or low-cost but under-resourced and overstretched. Expats rely instead on private clinics and a medical scheme, and serious or complex cases are frequently evacuated to South Africa. Bring an adequate supply of any regular prescription medicine, as availability is inconsistent and specific brands may be unavailable.

How to access it: For routine and urgent care use private facilities such as MASM Medi Clinics, Mwaiwathu Private Hospital in Blantyre, or Adventist Health Services. You generally pay upfront and then claim from insurance, so keep cash or a card ready because deposits are common. Pharmacies in the cities stock basics, but do not assume a specific medicine will be in stock.

Insurance: Take comprehensive international health insurance that explicitly includes medical evacuation to South Africa, since local capacity for major emergencies is limited. Many residents also add a MASM local medical-scheme membership to cover day-to-day clinic visits and cut out-of-pocket costs.

• Greet before anything else: a handshake and 'Muli bwanji?' (how are you?) opens every interaction, and rushing straight to business is seen as rude.
• Malawi is called 'the warm heart of Africa' for a reason; patience, politeness and a friendly tone get you far further than being brusque or impatient.
• Dress modestly, especially in villages, offices and rural areas; women often wear a chitenje (wrap) over trousers or a skirt, and beachwear stays at the lake.
• Use your right hand, or both hands, to give and receive money, gifts and business cards, and greet elders and senior people first as a sign of respect.
• Accept hospitality graciously: if offered food or drink when visiting, taking at least a little is polite, and small courtesies are remembered.
• Learn a handful of Chichewa phrases beyond greetings, such as 'zikomo' (thank you/excuse me); the effort is warmly received even where English works fine.
• Keep public behaviour calm and measured; raising your voice, showing anger or trying to shame someone in public damages relationships and rarely speeds things up.

• Homosexuality is criminalised and public attitudes are conservative, so LGBTQ+ arrivals should be cautious about public behaviour and discreet about their private lives.
• Photographing government buildings, the airport, bridges, police, soldiers or the State House can cause serious trouble; always ask before photographing people, and expect some to decline.
• Avoid public criticism of the president or overt political displays, and steer well clear of demonstrations, which can turn tense or be broken up abruptly.
• Respect religious sensibilities in a devout, largely Christian and partly Muslim society; Sundays and church, and Fridays in Muslim communities, shape the rhythm of the week.
• Do not hand out money to children who beg, as it encourages them away from school; give through established organisations instead.