Just Landed in Senegal? Your First 7 Days

Mobile data is cheap, fast in the city and the backbone of daily life, from ride-hailing to mobile money. Orange (Sonatel) has the widest and most reliable coverage nationwide, with Yas (formerly Free, rebranded by AXIAN in late 2024) as a strong number two and Expresso as a budget alternative. Home fibre exists across Dakar through Orange but installation typically takes several days to a couple of weeks. SIM registration against your passport is legally mandatory.

Typical cost: A SIM costs around 500–1,000 XOF; a monthly data pass with several GB runs roughly 3,000–10,000 XOF depending on volume, and home fibre packages start around 20,000–30,000 XOF per month.

Senegal uses the West African CFA franc (XOF), shared across eight countries and pegged to the euro at a fixed 655.957 XOF, which makes budgeting from a euro income predictable. It remains overwhelmingly a cash-and-mobile-money economy: outside supermarkets, hotels and larger restaurants, bank cards are often useless, while Wave and Orange Money QR payments work almost everywhere.

Opening an account: Opening a bank account needs proof of residence and can be slow and paperwork-heavy; Société Générale (SGBS), Ecobank, CBAO Attijariwafa Bank, UBA and BICIS are the most foreigner-accessible. Many newcomers lean on mobile-money wallets instead, which are quick to set up with a passport and near-universal for daily payments and transfers.

Cash: Carry a mix of small notes and coins, because taxis, markets and neighbourhood shops rarely break a 10,000 XOF note. Wave, whose flat roughly 1 percent fee undercut the incumbents, is now the most-used wallet in the country and is often accepted where cards are refused; Orange Money keeps the largest agent and bill-payment network.

Tipping: Tipping is modest and not obligatory. Rounding up a restaurant bill or leaving 5–10 percent for good service is appreciated, a small daily tip keeps the neighbourhood guardien on side, and a few hundred francs for porters or petrol attendants is customary.

Foreigners intending to reside in Senegal beyond a short visit must obtain a residence card, the Carte d'Identité d'Étranger (carte de séjour), issued by the Direction de la Police des Étrangers et des Titres de Voyage (DPETV) under the Ministry of the Interior. You submit a passport, proof of address, a medical certificate, professional references and a repatriation bond of around 75,000 XOF, then immediately receive a récépissé (receipt) that legally covers your residence during processing. That receipt must be renewed every six months at your local commissariat, because the physical plastic card can take a year or more to produce. Employers or schools often start the process, but the responsibility is ultimately yours. ECOWAS nationals face lighter requirements but should still regularise long stays.

Deadline: Apply before your visa-free period or long-stay visa expires, generally within 90 days of arrival; short stays under 90 days do not require the card.

Where: Direction de la Police des Étrangers et des Titres de Voyage (DPETV) in Dakar, or the regional police commissariat for your area outside the capital.

Dakar moves on a mix of shared taxis, colourful minibuses (the old cars rapides and Tata buses), the state Dakar Dem Dikk bus network, a new electric BRT corridor and the TER commuter train out to Diamniadio. Traffic is heavy and unpredictable, and the yellow-and-black street taxis have no meters, so haggling is the norm and many newcomers default to app-based rides for a fixed, visible price.

From the airport: Blaise Diagne International (AIBD) sits about 45 km southeast of Dakar near Diass. Your options are the official airport shuttle bus, a pre-agreed taxi (roughly 15,000–25,000 XOF), a Yango booked in-app, or the TER train onward from Diamniadio; budget 60–90 minutes in traffic. Always confirm the fare or use an app rather than accepting an unmarked driver inside the terminal.

Most expats rent furnished or unfurnished flats in Almadies, Ngor, Mermoz, Point E, Fann or the Plateau, usually found through word of mouth, Facebook and WhatsApp groups, or a local go-between called a démarcheur. Listings are informal, viewings are arranged fast, and prices are often quoted higher for foreigners, so it pays to have a local check the market rate. Power and water reliability vary sharply by building, so always ask about a generator (groupe électrogène) and a water tank or borehole.

Typical rent: A modern one-bed in a desirable Dakar neighbourhood runs roughly 300,000–600,000 XOF per month, while an equivalent flat in an outer district can be 150,000–300,000 XOF; Almadies and Ngor villas cost considerably more.

Deposit norm: Landlords typically want two to three months' rent as a deposit plus the first month upfront, and a démarcheur or agency usually charges around one month's rent as commission. Get everything, including the deposit, in a written contract.

Dakar has the country's best facilities, mixing large public hospitals with private clinics that most expats prefer for faster, higher-standard care. Quality drops sharply outside the capital, and serious or specialist cases are commonly referred to Dakar or evacuated abroad, which is why evacuation cover matters. Pharmacies are widespread, well stocked and a practical first stop for minor issues and advice.

How to access it: For non-emergencies, go directly to a private clinic such as Clinique de la Madeleine, Hôpital Principal de Dakar or Clinique du Cap and pay at the point of care. For emergencies call SAMU on 1515 or the general line 112; ambulance response can be slow, so a private taxi or Yango straight to a clinic is often faster than waiting.

Insurance: There is no automatic public health cover for foreigners, so comprehensive international health insurance that includes medical evacuation is strongly advised. Clinics generally require payment upfront and issue paperwork so you can claim reimbursement from your insurer afterwards.

• Greet people fully before any request; a proper exchange of As-salamu alaykum, Nanga def (how are you) and a few pleasantries opens every interaction and skipping it reads as rude.
• Use your right hand for eating, giving and receiving, as the left hand is considered unclean.
• Dress modestly, especially women away from beach areas, covering shoulders and knees when visiting homes, offices, mosques or government buildings.
• Accept hospitality graciously: if you are offered tea (ataya) or invited to share from the communal bowl, joining in is a genuine mark of welcome.
• Learn a handful of Wolof phrases; even a stumbling Nanga def earns real goodwill where French alone would do the job.
• Show respect to elders and religious figures, letting them be greeted and served first in social settings.
• Be patient and keep your composure; raising your voice or showing visible frustration in a dispute loses you standing rather than winning the argument.

• During Ramadan, eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight hours is offensive to fasting neighbours, so be discreet.
• Ask before photographing people, religious sites or anything official; some will expect a small payment, and others will refuse outright.
• Avoid public displays of affection and open criticism of religion or the marabout (spiritual leaders), which are taken seriously.
• Do not offer or accept anything important with the left hand, and take off your shoes when entering a home or prayer space if others do.
• Steer clear of casual political commentary with strangers, particularly around elections or protests, when tensions can flare quickly.