Just Landed in Syria? Your First 7 Days

Two mobile networks, Syriatel and MTN Syria, cover the main cities, though data is slow and expensive by regional standards and MTN is in the process of exiting the market to be replaced by a new government-awarded licensee. Fixed broadband via the state Syrian Telecom (ADSL and some fibre) exists in Damascus and larger cities but is hostage to the power supply, so a connection is only as reliable as your generator. Many people run mobile data plus a UPS or battery to keep a router alive through cuts.

Typical cost: A prepaid SIM with a small monthly data bundle costs roughly the equivalent of 3-8 USD, and home ADSL or fibre runs around 10-20 USD a month where available; buy top-ups at kiosks or through the operator's self-care app.

Syria runs almost entirely on cash in Syrian pounds, with US dollars widely accepted for rent, big purchases and among the diaspora. The pound has collapsed and prices are quoted in tens or hundreds of thousands, so expect to carry thick bundles of notes and to recount everything. International Visa and Mastercard, foreign ATMs and PayPal do not work because sanctions cut Syria off from the global payment system.

Opening an account: Local banks such as Bank of Syria and Overseas, Byblos Bank Syria, Bank Audi Syria and the state Commercial Bank of Syria can in principle open resident accounts, but they are of limited practical use to foreigners and remain isolated from the international financial system. Most newcomers skip formal banking entirely and manage in physical cash, using a local partner's account only where a business genuinely requires it.

Cash: Cash is king, so bring physical US dollars in good, uncreased condition, because torn, marked or pre-2013 series notes are frequently refused. Money moves informally through the hawala network and licensed exchange bureaus rather than bank wires, which sanctions largely block, and it is normal to receive a fat brick of pound notes for even modest sums.

Tipping: Tipping (baksheesh) is customary and appreciated: round up taxi fares and leave around 5-10% in restaurants. Small tips to porters, petrol attendants, the building's generator operator and anyone who smooths a task are part of how daily life functions.

Foreigners staying beyond a short visit are expected to register with the immigration and passports authority (Idarat al-Hijra wal-Jawazat) and hold the appropriate residence permit for their purpose of stay, and hotels automatically report guests to the security services. In practice your legal status usually flows from a sponsor, employer or invitation, and enforcement is applied unevenly and can change quickly, so confirm the current requirement directly with the office or your sponsor rather than relying on hearsay. Keep your passport, entry stamp and any permit on you, since they may be checked at checkpoints or by police.

Deadline: Typically expected within about 15 days of arrival, though this is applied inconsistently and depends on your visa type and sponsor; verify the current rule on arrival.

Where: Immigration and Passports Department (Idarat al-Hijra wal-Jawazat) offices in Damascus and provincial capitals, usually approached through your sponsor or a local fixer.

Getting around means shared taxis (servees), yellow city taxis and microbuses, and you should agree the fare before getting in because meters are rarely used or trusted. Fuel shortages, queues at petrol stations and security checkpoints make journeys slow and unpredictable, and intercity travel should only be attempted in daylight on routes locals confirm are open. There is no metro, and the passenger rail network is largely non-functional, so a trusted private driver booked over WhatsApp is the most reliable option for anything beyond a short hop.

From the airport: Damascus International Airport sits about 25-30 km south-east of the city centre, roughly a 30-45 minute drive when the road is clear. Arrange a pre-booked driver through your accommodation or take an official airport taxi, and agree the full price in advance, often quoted in US dollars. The airport road has periodically been closed or affected by security incidents, so confirm with a local that it is open before you travel, especially at night.

Rentals are found through local samsar (brokers), Facebook groups and word of mouth rather than formal listing portals, and a real share of the stock is war-damaged or short of reliable utilities. Contracts are frequently informal and paid in cash, often in US dollars for better flats, so read what you sign and, if you cannot, have a trusted Arabic speaker read it for you. Prioritise buildings with a working generator subscription, water storage and a landlord who someone you trust can vouch for over any amount of cosmetic appeal.

Typical rent: A modest flat in central Damascus runs roughly 150-400 USD a month, with better or diaspora-oriented properties in areas like Malki or Abu Rummaneh costing more; pound-denominated prices shift constantly with the exchange rate.

Deposit norm: Expect one to three months' rent up front, plus a broker fee of around half a month to one month's rent. Deposits and terms are negotiable and rarely documented formally, so agree everything, including how and when the deposit is returned, before you hand over cash.

Years of war have gutted the health system: many public hospitals are damaged, understaffed or short of medicines and equipment, and the quality of care is patchy and uneven. Private hospitals and clinics in Damascus, and to a lesser extent Aleppo and Latakia, offer the best available care but must be paid in cash, usually up front. Serious, complex or specialist cases are frequently referred abroad to Beirut or Amman, which is one reason medical-evacuation cover matters.

How to access it: For anything beyond a minor complaint, go straight to a reputable private hospital or clinic in a major city and pay cash on the spot, keeping receipts for any insurance claim. Carry a stock of any personal or prescription medication you rely on, because pharmacy supply is inconsistent and specific brands may be unavailable, and note your nearest functioning emergency facility before you need it.

Insurance: Ordinary international travel and health insurance almost always excludes Syria on account of active conflict and sanctions, so arrange specialist high-risk or war-zone cover that explicitly includes medical evacuation to Beirut, Amman or beyond before you arrive, and carry the policy number and 24-hour assistance line with you.

• Dress modestly, particularly women and around religious sites; a headscarf is expected inside mosques and appreciated in more conservative neighbourhoods.
• Greet warmly with a handshake among the same gender, and let a woman or more senior person offer their hand first, as some prefer not to shake across genders.
• Accept offers of tea or coffee whenever you reasonably can, since hospitality is central to Syrian life and a flat refusal can read as cold or rude.
• Use your right hand for eating, giving and receiving, and remove your shoes when entering someone's home unless told otherwise.
• Learn a few Arabic phrases; even basic greetings such as salaam alaikum, shukran and min fadlak go a long way and are met with genuine warmth.
• Bring a small gift such as sweets or fruit when invited to a home, and expect to be pressed to eat more than you can manage, which is a sign of welcome.
• Ask before photographing people, and be especially careful around women, children and anyone in uniform, as consent and discretion matter here.

• Do not photograph checkpoints, soldiers, government or military buildings, or damaged military sites, as this can lead to detention and questioning.
• Avoid discussing politics, the former and current governments, security forces or sectarian issues with people you do not know and trust.
• Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and alcohol should be kept to the few licensed venues rather than consumed in public.
• During Ramadan, avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight fasting hours, and expect shorter working hours and a shifted daily rhythm.
• Be cautious about openly showing wealth, expensive electronics or large amounts of cash in public, which can attract unwanted attention.