Just Landed in Togo? Your First 7 Days

Two operators cover the country: Yas (the rebranded incumbent formerly known as Togocom/Togocel), which has the broadest reach, and Moov Africa Togo. Both run 4G across Lomé and the larger towns, though coverage and speed thin out noticeably in rural areas and the north. SIM registration against your passport is compulsory and done at the point of sale, so bring ID.

Typical cost: A SIM costs around 500–1,000 XOF, and a monthly bundle of a few gigabytes runs roughly 3,000–7,000 XOF. Fixed home fibre and 4G routers exist in Lomé through Yas but are pricier and slower to install, so many expats simply tether from a data-heavy mobile plan and keep power banks for the frequent outages.

The currency is the West African CFA franc (XOF), shared across eight West African countries and pegged to the euro at a fixed 655.957 XOF to €1, which makes conversions predictable. It is overwhelmingly a cash-and-mobile-money economy; card payments only work reliably in upmarket hotels, a few supermarkets and some petrol stations, and card surcharges are common.

Opening an account: Ecobank, Orabank, Bank of Africa (BOA) and UBA are the most foreigner-friendly and have the widest ATM networks across Lomé. Opening an account typically needs your passport, a residence permit or long-stay visa, proof of address and often an employer or sponsor letter. Expect the process to take days to a couple of weeks and to involve several in-person visits and photocopies, not an instant online sign-up.

Cash: Carry cash every day and keep small denominations, because vendors, taxis and zémidjans rarely have change and 'no change' is a routine negotiating tactic. Mobile money is the real backbone: Mixx by Yas and Flooz (Moov Money) are used for rent, salaries, market stalls and utility bills, and you top up or cash out at ubiquitous agent kiosks marked with the network's colours. Set at least one up in your first week.

Tipping: Tipping is not obligatory and locals mostly do not tip. In sit-down restaurants aimed at expats, rounding up or leaving 5–10% is appreciated; for taxis, zémidjans and everyday services it is neither expected nor standard. A small tip for hotel or delivery staff who go out of their way is a kind gesture rather than an obligation.

There is no European-style town-hall address registration in Togo, but foreigners who intend to live in the country long-term are legally required to hold a carte de séjour (residence permit). It is issued by the immigration authorities in Lomé, and you cannot lawfully reside long-term on a tourist entry once your authorised stay runs out. The temporary card covers stays longer than three months; an ordinary card is for those settling without a time limit who have already lived here around three years; and a privileged card exists for very long-established residents. The permit is normally valid for one year and renewable, and you should expect an in-person process with photos, photocopies, a proof-of-address attestation and, for workers, an employer letter.

Deadline: Apply before your entry visa or authorised stay expires — generally within the first 90 days of arrival. Overstaying without a valid permit can lead to fines and complications when leaving or renewing.

Where: Direction Générale de la Documentation Nationale (DGDN) / national immigration service in Lomé.

Daily movement in Lomé means shared taxis running loose fixed routes (you hail, share and pay per seat) and zémidjan motorbike taxis for short door-to-door hops; both are cheap but you agree the fare first because there are no meters. There is no metro or reliable formal city bus network for everyday use, helmets are rarely offered on motorbikes, and traffic and dust can be heavy on the main arteries.

From the airport: Lomé–Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport (formerly Tokoin) sits about 5–6 km north of the city centre, a 15–25 minute drive. Take a shared or private taxi (roughly 2,000–3,000 XOF, negotiated in advance), or book a Gozem or Yango car through the app for a fixed price. Many hotels will arrange an airport pickup if you ask ahead, which is the least stressful option on your first night.

Most expats rent in western Lomé neighbourhoods such as Kodjoviakopé and Nyékonakpoè (near the embassies, beach and Ghana border) or in the growing suburbs of Adidogomé and Agoè-Nyivé for more space. Furnished short-term flats exist but the norm is unfurnished long lets found through local agents (agences immobilières), Facebook groups and word of mouth rather than large international listing sites. Viewing in person and checking the power and water situation matters more than photos.

Typical rent: A modest one-bedroom in Lomé runs roughly 75,000–150,000 XOF per month, while larger villas or serviced expat flats in the western quarter can reach 300,000 XOF and well above. Rents in the northern suburbs can fall to 50,000–90,000 XOF for similar space.

Deposit norm: Landlords commonly ask for several months upfront — often two to three months' deposit plus one or two months' advance rent, sometimes more. Insist on a written contract (contrat de bail), get receipts for every payment, and clarify who pays for the generator fuel, water tank and any agency commission before you sign.

Public healthcare is limited and under-resourced; the main referral hospital is the CHU Sylvanus Olympio in Lomé, with the CHU Campus as a second university hospital. Serious or specialist cases are routinely referred abroad to Accra or Europe, so most expats rely on private clinics such as Clinique Biasa, Polyclinique Internationale Saint Joseph and Clinique Autel d'Élie for day-to-day care.

How to access it: You generally pay upfront in cash at clinics, laboratories and pharmacies, then claim back on insurance, so keep every receipt. Pharmacies are widespread and well-stocked, many medicines are available over the counter, and each area has a rotating pharmacie de garde for nights and weekends. Still, bring a supply of anything critical and confirm the generic drug name, because specific brands can be missing.

Insurance: Carry comprehensive international health insurance that explicitly includes medical evacuation, because local facilities cannot handle major trauma or complex surgery and an emergency evacuation to Accra or Europe is extremely expensive to self-fund. Confirm your insurer has a 24-hour assistance line and check whether they pay clinics directly or reimburse you later.

• Greet before anything else. A handshake and a genuine enquiry after someone's health and family is expected before you get down to business or make a request; skipping it reads as cold.
• Use French for officialdom, banks and shops, and learn a few words of Ewé or Mina for the street — even a simple greeting earns real warmth and often a better price.
• Dress modestly and neatly. Togolese present themselves carefully, and scruffy or revealing dress reads as disrespectful in offices, banks and religious settings.
• Use your right hand for giving, receiving, eating and handing over money; the left hand is considered unclean for these gestures.
• Accept hospitality graciously. If offered water, food or a seat, taking it (even a little) honours the host; refusing outright can cause offence.
• Be patient and keep your temper. Raising your voice or showing visible frustration in a dispute or queue loses you respect and rarely speeds anything up.
• Ask permission before photographing people, and offer to share the photo or a small thank-you when appropriate.

• Never photograph military sites, the presidency, ports, the airport or official buildings, and always ask before photographing individuals.
• Political demonstrations can turn tense or be dispersed forcefully; avoid protests, rallies and large crowds, and follow local news for flashpoints.
• Avoid non-essential travel to the northern Savanes region near the Burkina Faso border, where there is a real risk of armed spillover and a state of security vigilance has applied.
• Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and same-sex relationships are criminalised, so LGBTQ+ visitors should be discreet for their own safety.
• Do not discuss the president or domestic politics loudly with strangers; it is a sensitive subject best kept private.